It's Uzbekistan

t’s Uzbekistan….I heard that phrase often when trying to find out about how things work and asked various people questions . As it turns out, there are no easy answers in Uzbekistan. Everything is complicated and sometimes it’s just easiest to break it down to a phrase which captures the essence of the situation. “It’s Uzbekistan.” The motor fuel issue illustrates this concept well....From all the taxis perpetually trolling the streets of any Uzbek city, you would think that fuel was readily available. But driving to Fergana and also in the Bukhara area, we noticed lines at “gas” stations that were so long it made the energy crunch of the U.S. in the 70’s pale by comparison….we saw lines of 30-40 cars at unopened stations.“Why,” I asked, and was told several times, “It’s Uzbekistan.” Bukhara itself has a population of around 300,000 people and the province contains 1,500,000. Yet, in the entire province, there are two stations serving Methane fuel. There used to be four, but there was some unsavory aspects of some sort and two of them were closed, when I asked why they were shut down, with rolling eyeballs, I was told: “It’s Uzbekistan.” I’m assuming it had to do with greasing palms or the lack thereofThere are four main fuels in Uzbekistan…Diesel, gasoline (benzene), Methane and Propane. The latter two are the desired fuels because of the price, but cars have to be adapted to run on Methane/propane as well as gasoline..It’s expensive to adapt them, about $1,000, a significant expense for an Uzbek, but most cars are so equipped…Diesel is out, except for trucks and buses…It used to be popular when it was cheap, but now it is too expensive now since the price has risen 6 fold. And even though there are numerous “gas” stations selling gasoline, that doesn’t mean that fuel will be any more available. The two aforementioned methane stations only open on a very sporadic basis. Hence the long line of vehicles waiting to get in. People park in the line and then leave their car there overnight….kind of an Uzbek version of the rock concert ticket line. They may wait days before it opens. They go back to their homes at night, and maybe to their jobs in the day, or maybe back to the line to wait. Everybody in this country has a cell phone, I swear, from Muslim, hijab wearing grandmothers to7 year olds, so they may get calls from others in line when fuel is availbalbe. These are government run stations, as I understand it. One man had spent the last five days driving around looking for a gasoline station that was open and hadn’t found one..If he didn’t find one soon, he would have to do the “It’s Uzbekistan,” shuffle…which means paying the black market price which is 33% higher, so everybody tries to avoid that if possible. The point is that there is fuel available, but you have to work the system. Taxi drivers ply their trade for two days, then have to wait a day or so in line to get back into the action. And action it is. Taxis are everywhere. This whole dance that people have to do concerning fuel pervades Uzbek society. The fuel issue is simply typical of many aspects of Uzbek life and runs throughout the Uzbek private and public sectors. In spite of this fact, I found little discontent. There is a grudging acknowledgement that this is just how it works, and so you function in it. A peripheral issue is the automobile itself. It’s actually easier and cheaper to buy a used car than a new one….To purchase a new car which is actually produced in Uzbekistan, you have to pay 85% of the money up front and then wait up to six months to delivery. If the price has risen, I was told by a man with a smile on his face, you pay more. Therefore, used cars actually sell for more than a new one…immediate delivery. With the new cars you are at the mercy of others and you have no consumer protection whatsoever. Of course, you can get a new car faster, if you take care of the right people, but if you are trying to buck the system and do things the right way, you often have to pay with your pocketbooks and your time. Theh educational system is another aspect that requires a through understanding of Uzbek culture. Over the past two years, I have been bombarded with comments from my friends about how the educational system is not a level playing field…As I’ve noted in previous letters, the pressure on these kids is enormous. They get one shot, and no guarantee of a second. Hence, the results are critical. If your results aren’t quite up to snuff? Well, “It’s Uzbekistan.” Teachers change grades, results are doctored, decisions of refusal are reversed, and things taken care of. I don’t mean to indict the whole system, I know that there are some excellent institutions, mostly run by foreign universities (the Brits are big in this area) , and the best kids still get in no matter what, but when you’re on the bubble, the bubble can swing in different directions, depending…..and there seems to be great frustration amongst the young people about how this works. But, Students have no basic rights in Uzbekistan…they are totally at the beck and call of the institutionalized institution. Teachers may schedule and exam at 10:00 and then send word that it’s not convenient for him/her, so the test is rescheduled for 2:00 that afternoon. With the long list of those clamoring to get in, there is little rocking the boat by those already in the system, or even by those trying to get in…so it basically comes down to two choices, you can play the game, or you can take your chances. I know several really good, smart kids that haven’t been accepted yet. They have been preparing for two years to take the entrance exams. It’s expensive, but they can’t afford to miss the first time. It’s that critical Islam Karimov is vilified in the west, and many in the west consider Uzbekistan to be pretty high up on the list of human rights violations…(right up there with George Bush and the Neocons) but he is generally popular with the people. They may not like everything he does, but the country borders on Afghanistan and they don’t want that kind of turmoil. Uzbeks don’t want to rock the boat…the only discerning comment I heard was in the Fergana/Andijon area where I was told to be careful what I said because, “The walls could be listening.” It was said to me to be cautious. But Uzbekistan is peaceful and calm. There is a police presence everywhere, but it’s not intrusive. They’re just there. They wear dark green uniforms and are referred to with the Uzbek word for “cucumbers,” You’re always just reminded that they are there, but they mostly seem to talk to themselves rather than scanning the crowds or being intrusive. . It must take a huge chunk of the national pelf to keep that number of policemen on the streets. Most don’t wear guns. I never saw one that did, but was told that some do. Military presence on the road was again, not intrusive, but present. Document checks are common, both in rural and urban areas. And yet, there is no air of despondency or morose behavior on the streets. On the contrary, the streets are filled with laughing, joyful people, young and old, enjoying life. They love their country, are very proud of its history, and very optimistic about its future. Family units are well intact, there is national pride, and young people see bright times ahead. I’m torn between my cynicism and my hope for their future. It’s a great place…I love Uzbekistan and I have been treated with kindness, friendliness and generosity of spirit where ever I’ve gone in the country….They all love America…certainly a lot more than I do, and I want them to succeed. I’m rooting for them.