I suppose that all of us could say that at age 19 we had no idea how our lives would take shape, but I think more so for me for as an aimless, physically and mentally lazy person I could never have imagined the incredible life which was in store for me. It began as a simple act of defiance, not unusual for me, even then, when I declared that I was going to hitchhike my way around Europe in 1961. I was so naïve, so uninitiated to the world, that each day was magic…there wasn’t a day that didn’t have something special to it in one form or another. Time warp 55 years into the future and that same magic continues to define my life. As I travel I still shake my head in wonderment at the way it has unfolded and I never can understand how such an ordinary person has had such an extraordinary life….one that continually teaches me as much about myself as the cultures I discover. Today, our first full day in Budapest was a perpetuation of that discovery and that fascination.
We arrived at our hotel which is a typical old style hotel much as I used in the “old days.” It was a nondescript building with a small sign over the door which read: Hotel Metro. Pressing the button alerted the reception desk to buzz us in where we followed the sign to the “lift,” and ascended to the 3rd floor, which is actually the 4th floor, to the reception. The lift was just big enough for two people wearing backpacks and pulling suitcases to enter with a little basic organization of space. It’s a 3 star establishment and has all the requirements: free wi-fi, a halfway decent bed, and lots of hot water all for $50 a night. The shower is big enough to allow a person to actually turn around, but no hanky-panky in the shower, two will never fit.
After a surprisingly restful 1st night we headed out to discover this exotic city which has fascinated me ever since seeing on TV the Russian tanks roll through the streets in 1956. Even for a sleepy and drizzly Sunday morning, the streets seemed unusually quiet and deserted. Further exploration led us to the discovery that it was Budapest Marathon day. We happened to be in front of the Budapest State Opera house and as the first runners began to run by, a band struck up the John Phillips Sousa March: “Washington Post,” followed by some Scott Joplin Ragtime. This was followed by a full chorus on the steps singing the “Hallelujah Chorus,” and served as our introduction to the Cultural aspect of one of Europe’s most sophisticated and artistic cities…Who knew?...not me, anyway.
We did a hop-on-hop off tour and learned facts to back up the previous statement…over 400 book publishers in the city, over 60 independent theatre groups and literally hundreds of musical societies. Even decades of Soviet domination could not dampen the cultural side of the city. As the capital of an “independent” country within the Soviet bloc, Budapest was not subjected to the sterile buildings of that system as TashKent and Almaty were as “Soviet Republics.” Rather it retains the old world style as one of the bright lights of the Austrian-Hungarian Hapsburg Empire. Hence it is full of glittering, albeit fading, rooftops and domes while the buildings have a uniqueness, and not conforming to any individual style. Carol thought they looked more like Tallin and Riga in the Baltics.
First thoughts:
PASTRIES: Oh my do they love their sweets…strudels, traditional chocolates of amazing variety and dozens of things like square doughnuts and a wide variety of “chimney cakes, “ and all kinds of pastries, of which I have no clue, but all look really good. They are sold in fancy, upscale shops, little mom-and-pops, and on the street after dark from little food carts which have disappeared in the morning.
ALCOHOL
If I thought that pastries shops were ubiquitous pubs and clubs abound in the city and beer is on tap in almost any place that sells some food. The hop-on-hop off bus even provides a free beer at one of their stops. As the original developer of the Tokay grape used in the wine of the same name, this means that there are a lot of homeless people who sleep on the street with their wine bottle clutched in their hand. However, I wouldn’t say that it looked any different, or worse than walking down Market Street in my favorite city anywhere, San Francisco.
SMOKING
I was truly amazed at the number of smokers there are from a wide, cross-section of the population. Young adults in a surprisingly large numbers can be seen smoking their curiously thin cigarettes. Male/female sophisticates and homeless, it all seemed the same. I was most surprised at the young smokers because in other cultures I have seen, smoking was more of a generational thing with more smokers who were older than otherwise. Many young choir-boy look-alikes and their sweet angelic counterpoints have the cigarette between their fingers.
CULTURAL BIAS
I always say that I check my stereotypes and preconceived ideas at the door but one area I can’t in is the overall friendliness of the people…I tend to judge the world on an Uzbekistan standard and nothing I have seen since can match the outward warmth and friendliness of the people. I know this is, in part, because they are just opening up to the world, but it goes beyond that. They are just a wonderfully warm people. Here in Budapest, you’re just another in the long line of tourists who have come here for hundreds of years….This is not to say that they are not friendly. We’ve not been met with any “coldness,” but you’ll be misguided if you come here and expect a warm greeting. It’s all business here in the big city. I think this comes in part from the overall sophistication of the people. They’ve seen it all.
BRAND NEW WORLD
It’s a whole different emphasis from what I’ve known before here in Europe. Here there are Bulgarian and Turkish institutes and the country aligns more with the other “Central” European nations: Poland, Slovakia, and the Czech Republic than they do with the traditional powers of Western Europe.
GAIETY IN THE AIR
This seems to be a place where people like to have a good time and there is a liveliness to the place…lots of clubs and watering holes. I think the Hungarians are a very convivial people when you get to know them. They like to have fun. No dour pall over the place…this is definitely not Scotland.
So, here we are living large in Budapest and feeling full of adventurous spirit about what lies ahead…let it roll. Life is good.
Sign of the day: “ALCOHOL, because no great story ever began with someone eating a salad.” Welcome to Budapest.
