Technically speaking China qualifies for five different time zones, but they only operate under one. Everybody operates on Beijing time. The benefit of state planning, I suppose when you can make everybody run on your clock. I understand that in the Uiger area they do run on two hours difference from Beijing, but I guess I find that out soon enough. All I know is that we’ve come a long way west and nothing’s changed. In Beijing it was beginning to get light at 5 a.m. but here in Xining it’s still dark outside at that time. All areas must adapt to what’s convenient for Beijing. I understand the logic, just not the practicality. It puts an extra burden on everybody not in that Beijing latitude.
Our plan B yesterday was a real mess up. No real fault of anybody, well, not with the organizers of the tour anyway. We stayed in Linxia as I mentioned, and it was a miserable adjustment. Had to be done we all understand, but the hotel they came up with was clean, but that’s all I can say about it. Beds were rock hard, pillows harder, breakfast atrocious, no hot water and mosquitoes in the rooms. Michael and Thor said they almost knocked themselves out swatting the ‘beasts’ in the night. Fireworks went off at 5 a.m. What’s that all about? Sounded like the “Excitement” the Chinese authorities were worried about.
But after leaving the hotel we did have a nice day, long, but nice. They decided since we couldn’t go to Xiahe that we’d go to a Buddhist grotto area across a large lake flooded by the damming of the Yellow River. We got out early, no objections there from the group, and after motoring across the lake in speed boats for about 20 minutes, came to the area. We were the first ones there and it was incredibly peaceful. We walked along a narrow passage built just above the water’s edge a lovely pathway with nicely done pillars which made for a very serene stroll. After the cacophony of horns in Linxia the solitude was really what we all needed. A large Buddha had been carved into the cliff face, ala Abu Simbel and several small niches in the stone really set the tone for the walk. It was another stop on the Silk Road. We’re getting into the meat of the area now and it’s difficult to imagine how they did this. It’s tough enough by bus, but by camel taking months and years to do, well, it’s a mind blower.
Right now we’re dealing with lot of contrasts. Horribly maintained roads turn into super four lane highways, crumbling villages which make you wonder why people live there, become cities with multiple 30 plus story apartment complexes just down the road, land so pitifully poor in quality suddenly becomes lush, fertile landscapes.
Everybody is starting to do the old eye-ball roll at lunch and dinner. First of all, it’s way too much food, and secondly it’s way too much Chinese food. It was great for a while, but I think there’s a mini revolt coming. As Saci said: “At home you have Chinese food, what, once a month? Here twice a day, every day.” Nobody’s disagreeing with him. The meal plan is that we have breakfast each day and either lunch or dinner. But Ben arranges the meal not included and it’s turning out to be the same. Carol and I brought Clif Bars, and I think we’re going to pass on the lunches.
Our plan C city is Xining. Since we couldn’t get to Xiahe and absolutely nobody was going to stay in Linxia for another night, we came here. Tomorrow we’re going to see a different Buddhist monastery from the one scheduled in plan A. To get here we did travel overland. All the intercity travel so far has been overnight trains, but that’s going to change since we only have two more. Traveling overland in daylight really gives one the sense of what this journey would have been like. Because we were not going on scheduled itineraries, things got a little convoluted. We were headed in the right direction when the road was suddenly closed. That began a series of stops asking directions of how to get over the mountain. The local told us to take this road and then turn here and then get back to there. That worked up to the third direction when the plan fell apart with an impassable road. Back down the mountain to the same village, but this time ask another local, who gave different directions, which again worked fine until there was a fork in the road which was not explained. Stop the bus, go find another driver and get directions from him. It was comical in that we all knew we’d get there eventually and it was almost comforting to know that a local driver didn’t know how to do it. It made us all realize how totally lost we’d be attempting something like this on our own.
With all the one night stands we’ve had in combination with the trains, laundry is starting to pile up. No time to wash and get it dry before we’re off to the next town. Everybody’s getting that: “my socks are dirty,” look about them.
Michael and Thor, our flamboyant gay couple, are a constant source of entertainment. They’re so over the top it’s fun to watch them be so totally themselves and not give a damn about anything else. They’re fun, open, helpful and entertaining. They showed pictures today of their children. Eyes opened widely as the photos came out, only to find they were two Afghan hounds who they raised from pups. Stories about the dogs sleeping with them with their heads on the pillow and growling when the “parents” tried to move were hilarious. We all felt sad for them when they told us the dogs had died. They said that their friends told them they were perfectly matched with the dogs, because when they ran on the beach the four of them all ran alike.
Although I sent out something this afternoon and this is rather short, I’m sending it anyway because internet service is getting spotty and we’re getting into areas where the quality of hotels may not provide the opportunity to send. I’ll continue to write since the whole purpose of these is for my own records, but many of you have indicated you enjoy getting them, so, I’ll send them as time and opportunity allow. We may be heading to the dark side of the moon and not have any communication until we emerge on the flip side. But know that there are lots of things which happen to make us think of you at home and that will continue. As we went across the water today in the boat, I couldn’t help but remember my two friends from school who couldn’t understand why it took them so long to get back from their fishing trip on Pardee Lake. They gunned the engine and it worked hard, but the boat never got up any speed . It was only when they got back to the dock that they realized that they’d forgotten to raise the anchor.
Life is to enjoy, stay safe and do so.
Carol and Jim
