Midnight in Moscow

On our first arrival in Moscow, my 60th birthday, Bella took us on a car tour of downtown before going to her apartment. She must have had some intuition of what it would mean to us. Even in my sleep-deprived, jet-lagged, suddenly senior citizen status, it was a thrill to see the flood-lit Kremlin and the onion domed St. Basil’s cathedral.
Years of seeing TV pictures of troops marching and tanks and missiles rolling across Red Square had merely whetted my appetite to see this political symbol of the struggle between good and evil as the propagandists had led me to believe for all my formative years. So it was to Red Square that we first headed upon our return at the end of the trip. It did not disappoint.
Red Square is strictly regulated as to when you can enter the public square. Even though it is not inside the Kremlin’s walls, the police set up barricades and from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. And you can only enter through one gate which leads you to that yellowing, moldy, fungus-breeding figure of Lenin lying in state, as he has since 1924. The huge lines to see him are no because, if the pictures of the continuous lines were correct, then surely everybody in Russia must have already seen him over the years. But the reality is probably because interest in the whole Soviet thing is now really more a curiosity than a rite of passage.
In this case, there was no waiting. There was a somewhat drunk man in front of us supported by a woman. Proper “Respect” is still enforced by the multitude of military guards on hand. No talking, no whispering, no funny gestures, no improper body language is allowed. That is absolute. It seems odd that although the people have rejected his policies, and large parts of the population see him as an evil being, you have to keep the same demeanor as when the Soviets reigned. The fact is that his body is somewhat of a political hot potato. Nobody knows just what they should do with this symbol of the revolution who was elevated to mythical status during “The Soviet Time.” After almost 80 years of lying there, the only thing that is certain is that it’s pretty ugly at this point.
Upon viewing Lenin in the red marble tomb which served as the viewing stage for the top Communist leaders and the annual May Day parade, the path leads behind the tomb to where the heroes of the Soviet Union are buried beneath the Kremlin Walls. We really wanted to see the grave of John Reid, or Djon Rid, as they say in Russian. Remember Warren Beatty’s movie “Reds?” That was the story of the American Communist who wrote the book, “Ten days that shook the world,” and still remains the definitive work on the revolution. He is the only American, I wonder why?, to be buried beneath the Kremlin walls.
After seeing all the plots and plaques, we were shuffled out of the square and we walked around to the ticket booth for our entry to the Kremlin proper. It is a huge structure. Kremlin really means fort in Russians, so there are Kremlins everywhere in Russia, but this one is the real deal. It’s a huge affair. A long red-bricked triangular wall with a perimeter of almost two miles, topped with towers at various points. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier is just outside, and entering the Kremlin proper is still very popular with visitors. There are various churches and museums inside. The Tsar’s jewels and regalia are still on display, at an extra $10, of course. Then finally around to the other side and Red Square now opened because Lenin’s tomb is closed and the mass of people just milling around, doing photo op’s like us of course, and going through St. Basils. It was as big thrill as I had always thought it would be. Kind of like finally getting to macchu Picchu in Peru, this was another “biggie.”
Part of the photo op thing are the dozens of wedding parties who go to Red Square and the Kremlin to have their photos taken. Most people get married by civil authorities, the Russian equivalent of a Las Vegas elopement. But the difference is that it’s done in full regalia. Flowing white gowns, suited grooms, and the whole following entourage are all in tow. There will be groups of wedding parties all lined up for that perfect angle of everybody in front of St. Basils, Lenin’s tomb, and various other picturesque spots. One tradition is that the wedding couples have their pictures taken in front of the tomb of the Unknown Soldier and then leave part of the flowers in tribute. They may have rejected Communism, but there is still a tremendous understanding of the suffering of the Russian people during WWII. Losing 20 million people will do that to you. More civilians in St. Petersburg died during the siege than the combined military casualties of the U.S. and Britain.
Red Square figured in another memorable day in Moscow. May Day is no longer celebrated in Russia as a military showcase. The tanks no longer rumble through the square, nor do the Russian leaders rattle their sabers, but it is still part of a general four-day holiday and don’t try to tell the unrepentant Communists in the general population that it’s not a special day. On May 1st, we went back to the square and there was a huge demonstration going on just outside the square proper. Thousands of people all clad in red, singing the “Internazionale” wearing all their Soviet medals, waving their huge hammer and cycle flags, all made it a moving day. Just as big as if the missiles had been on display.
These old Communists do believe. Never doubt that! There were many “Passionate” discussions going on. Vehement, nose to nose, arm-waving arguments might be closer to the real picture. But feelings still run deep on all sides of “ The Soviet Time.” Actually, they block off Red Square to keep them from demonstrating in front of Lenin’s tomb, tut there are still are areas to have demonstrations.
At first we hesitantly asked if we could take video of some of the medal-laden people. But when asked for their photo, they absolutely puffed up like peacocks. They are very proudly they have not meekly gone back into the closet to ponder their bad fortune of history. They wear their political feelings openly and proudly. There wasn’t a one who hesitated to be filmed.
We had many other wonderful , memorable experiences in Moscow. It’s a fascinating city. The whole political and social climate makes for an exciting, if troubling time for Muscovites. But Red Square and the Kremlin will be at the focal point of our reflections in many different ways.