A brighter face for South Africa

But first a final thought or two on Swaziland.

We were amazed by the lack of interest or knowledge shown by the South Africans we talked to about Swaziland on our way there. The basic theme seemed to be: "Why on earth would you want to go there? There's nothing there." Well, that's simply not true. It may be fact that there is little economic growth, no real standing in the world community, nor bountiful tourist sites, but what it does have is a happy, friendly people. There are more smiles here per person than any place this side of Thailand. The people are not well off by western standards, but they're not poor by Central American standards either.
I'll tell you one thing, the kids are tougher and have more moxie than I could ever have. They stand barefooted on freshly blacktopped highways with nary a "Ooh, ouch, ay, that hurts." And they ride stripped down go carts made simply of three pieces of two-inch wood strapped together into a sideways "H"with four wheels attached, and they go screaming down the shoulder of highways with cars whizzing along at 85 miles an hour just inches from them. Then they pull them back up the hill and go zooming down again. Even I wouldn't do that.

As always, if we travel and only see things and don't learn about the people, we feel that we've learned nothing. And we hit the jackpot in meeting Natasha and Edward. We only spent two days with them, but I truly felt that I began to see South Africa, and began to get a sense of the Apartheid system.
They are 27 years old, and were on their honeymoon. Edward is of similar complexion to a Barak Obama or a Tiger Woods, while Natasha could pass for Spanish or other southern European. They are both accountants, and when I asked Natasha what she liked about being an accountant, she said: "I like coming into an office full of white people who don't think this little colored girl‚ could have any ability to know anything or do anything."
Well, that just opened the floodgates of information about growing up "colored" in South Africa. They were so open and forthright about their lives and what they experienced. Their openness encouraged questions that I have been curious about. Since I've arrived, I've had some difficulty talking to people knowing that so many of them either openly supported the Apartheid system or allowed it to happen by their silence. Edward and Natasha taught me that it's far more complicated than that.

Officially designated as "colored," means that they are of mixed native African and European blood. It's different thing from how we use the term "colored" in the States.
Edward is obviously mixed, but Natasha, to me, doesn't look like that at all. Edward says that a South African would recognize her as mixed by subtle features as well as language. She said that she has siblings who could pass for white and often did to get to places that were off-limits to them as mixed. Even within an immediate family there will be tremendous differences of features, from very dark to very light.
Edward explained that even as a colored family there was a lot of complicity in the continuance of the system. His grandfather, mixed himself, is very prejudiced against the blacks. At their wedding, they had a real problem of whom to sit where. Can't put so-and-so next to Uncle Charlie. You know he'll make anti black comments. They have white, colored, and black friends. They have Christian, Jewish, and Muslim friends, as well as those who adhere to the ancient native beliefs.
Edward said that many of the colored people didn't support Mandela's cause because as long as the system continued, they, the coloreds, weren't on the bottom of the heap. There is a lot of guilt in the colored community about this, because many helped maintain the system rather than unite with the blacks to end it. They feared losing what limited rights they had and so sat on the sidelines and quietly supported the system.
We talked often and at length and each time it was like a very personal learning curve. I liked these two kids so much. To listen to them talk about their school days, their hopes and aspirations, I couldn't help but be truly moved by their stories.
Edward has a smooth and mellow disposition. He speaks very thoughtfully. I could see him moving easily in any environment. I can't imagine that anyone could dislike him. He is kind and has a very tender side to him that is very nice to see.
Natasha is very pretty and moves with a grace that shows her to be the dancer that she is. She is a very take-charge person, but does so with a smoothness and grace so that she gets her point across but does so without offending at any time. There is a softness and warmth to her that, again, I can't imagine how anyone could not be taken by her genuineness.
I really believe that with them as examples of what South Africa can be, I have a lot more confidence about their future than I did before meeting them.

We talked about how poor whites here in the south were complicit in continuing segregation, how it takes generations for things to take root, but just as the states still have major problems to overcome, it could never go back to the days of separate water fountains and bathrooms. It was truly a wonderful time with Ed and Natasha. When ever I think of Mkuze Falls, they will always come to mind. I am proud to say they are my friends, and I hope it isn't the last time I see them.

There's an old joke about what to do with a 5,000 pound elephant in your room, but we don't know what to do with the 5,000 pound elephant just outside your room. We came back to our room after dinner one night to hear the crash, boom, thump sounds coming from just off the path. Since it was dark, we couldn't see it, but it was so close that we could smell it. It obviously was an elephant moving just out of sight in the bush by the room. We decided it didn't make any sense to worry about locking the door, since it could just knock it down if he so chose. So we slept the semi sound sleep of someone who knows that things are not always in our control, but we had to trust the guiding spirits of our lives that we wouldn't wake up face to face with an angry elephant.

Game drives at Mkuze Falls were extremely gratifying. On one we found a pride of lions who were working their way through what was left of a wildebeest. The lioness sat to one side while one of the four males in attendance munched on spare ribs sans the barbecue sauce. At one point she came near the kill, only to be angrily chased away. So the rule is she makes the kill, and then eats what's left over after the males have their pick of the carcass. Seems natural to me, but then this is what got me in trouble in South America a number of years ago when we were told that the Ono people of Argentina had a system where the women rowed the boat while the men fished. I noted that it seemed like a sound basis to a good marriage. My wife, amongst other females of my acquaintance let me know that things had changed. Like I didn't know that.

We found a herd of 14 elephants with a one month old calf. Sipho, our Zulu ranger said that he had seen it born. The Matriarch of the herd eventually made it plain that she didn't like our presence and charged toward the safari truck. She never came in a full head long charge, but would come within 20 feet of the truck then stop. Naturally, Sipho had the truck in reverse and when she made her charge, he would back up. Not as quickly, I might add, as some of us would have liked, but he knows what he's doing. We'd back up a little more, then she would charge again. Eventually, she got close enough to put her trunk on the truck. Fascinating, but slightly unnerving. They are very protective of the young and let you know in no uncertain terms when you violate their comfort zone.

The place was warthog city. They were everywhere. Interesting little critters they are too. Giraffes were all over the air strip, they often have to buzz the place to move them off before landing. We didn't see rhinos nor leopards of the big five, but what we did see was in abundance.

But as with all trips, it was time to move on and begin new adventures. I left wishing I had asked them this or that, but maybe next time. Tomorrow we cross into Botswana, and head for the Okavango Delta and more game viewing. New things lie ahead, new adventures, new learning curves. I can hardly wait to see what life has in store for me. As always, it's a magical ride. This very ordinary man lives an extraordinarily rich life.
We hope this finds all of you well and happy. We send our love to each of you no matter how far flung you might be.
Until next time,We are,
Carol and Jim